so_out_of_ideas (![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
so_out_of_ideas) wrote2006-12-29 01:54 pm
so_out_of_ideas) wrote2006-12-29 01:54 pm
Entry tags:
...every tutorial was Daniel...
This is a technique I developed while trying to brighten some horribly dark screencaps in Urgo where the subjects were practically invisible. The icon is simple, but given what the base looked like to begin with, I felt it was worth a tutorial.
We'll be going from
to 
This is a PSP 8 Tutorial. Translates easily to other versions of the program; not sure about PS and GIMP since I haven't tried it. Like all my tuts, this is meant to be beginner friendly, so there are detailed explanations. Feel free to skip anything you don't need.
*Image and resource credits can be found in my resource post.
Tutorial 14: Coloring With Teal'c and Daniel
Step 1: Choose an image and resize it to fit a 100x100 canvas. There are a couple of ways to do this depending on the technique you're using for the icon, or just personal preference. This is the way I find simplest:
-- With your image open, go to File>New and open a new blank image, 100x100. Then go back to your original picture, click on the layer in your layer palette and drag from the layer palette onto the blank base. You'll end up with something that looks totally wrong, but hang in there. Now go to Image> resize and set it to anything between 75-20 percent, depending on the image. Make sure the box that says "resize all layers is not checked. Click OK and voila! Magic! If it's too big or too small, just undo and mess with it until you get what you like. For this cap, I used 20 percent. Then just use your move tool to slide the image over until you have it where you like.--
Step 2: Sharpen the base.
--Adjust>sharpness>sharpen. Only once Sometimes you can get away with twice. If I find a base still blurry, I duplicate the layer, then sharpen the duplicate. This way, if it's too sharp, I can just lower the opacity.
Step 3: Brighten the image.
Layers>Duplicate. Set the duplicate to screen.
(To do this, make sure the base layer is highlighted and click where it says "Normal" on your layer palette. From the drop down menu, choose "Screen.)
Do this three times.
Lower the opacity of the top layer to 52
(To do this, move the slider on your layer palette down from 100 to 52.)
This isn't bad, but I wanted something a bit more dramatic. Here's the key to the coloring.
Step 4: Gradient.
Sometimes I use an adjustment layer to heighten the satuaration on an image, but the advantage of this method is that the different shades on the gradient affect the skintones and clothing on the picture differently. Simply upping the saturation on the whole picture makes Danny all red and Teal'c just strange. This way, the lighter peach color boosts their natural skintone without annoying the crap out of me and making me have to go back and erase parts of the layer or something.
Copy and paste as a new layer. Set the blend mode to Saturation Legacy. I used a 50% opacity here, but don't be afraid to experiment.
Step 5: Color Balance (Optional)
This is just me being a perfectionist. I wasn't quite satisfied with the coloring, so I added an adjustment layer. It's optional. Also, the settings will vary widely depending on your cap.
Layers>New Adjustment Layer>Color Balance
I used these settings:
Select the "Midtones" button.
Preserve Luminance box should be checked
Color Levels: 58, 25, 24
If you find the coloring too bold, you can either mess with the color level settings or simply lower the opacity on the layer from your layer palette until you have something you're happy with.
And here's your finished icon. You can leave it as is or add text, textures, or whatever suits you.
And here's another horribly dark to bright and pretty tutorial. This time using the whole team and some warm colored gradients. I developed this technique to enhance the desert in my Dune icons, but it works brilliantly on dark caps too.
We'll be going from:
to 
This is a PSP 8 Tutorial. Translates easily to other versions of the program; not sure about PS and GIMP since I haven't tried it. Like all my tuts, this is meant to be beginner friendly, so there are detailed explanations. Feel free to skip anything you don't need.
*Image and texture credits can be found in my resource post.
Tutorial 15: Coloring With SG-1
Step 1: Choose an image and resize and crop it to fit a 100x100 canvas. There are a couple of ways to do this depending on the technique you're using for the icon, or just personal preference. This is the way I find simplest:
-- With your image open, go to File>New and open a new blank image, 100x100. Then go back to your original picture, click on the layer in your layer palette and drag from the layer palette onto the blank base. You'll end up with something that looks totally wrong, but hang in there. Now go to Image> resize and set it to anything between 75-20 percent, depending on the image. Make sure the box that says "resize all layers is not checked. Click OK and voila! Magic! If it's too big or too small, just undo and mess with it until you get what you like. For this cap, I used 20 percent. Then just use your move tool to slide the image over until you have it where you like. On this icon, pull the base down so you have some white space left at the top--
Step 2: Sharpen the base.
--Adjust>sharpness>sharpen. Only once Sometimes you can get away with twice. If I find a base still blurry, I duplicate the layer, then sharpen the duplicate. This way, if it's too sharp, I can just lower the opacity.
Don't mind the black border on the examples, it won't be there on your finished product, I just use it here because my layout has a white background so you don't see the space on top without a border.
Step 3: Brighten the image.
Layers>Duplicate. FOUR times.
--Set the first one to "Soft Light". This may seem to be the exact opposite of what you want, but it will help retain detail when you start adding screen layers in a moment.
--Set the middle two layers to "Screen".
--Set the top layer to "Soft Light" and lower the opacity to 74.
(To do this, make sure the base layer is highlighted and click where it says "Normal" on your layer palette. From the drop down menu, choose "Screen" or "Soft Light". Then move the little slider thing back from 100 to 74.)
Step 4: Gradient
Copy and paste as a new layer. Set to screen over the image. It will look weird, but go with me. Duplicate the layer and set to multiply. I'll give you an example image just so you know it is supposed to look this faded.
Step 5:Duplicate the base layer. Number of layers for this step depends heavily on the particular image used, so experiment.
--Go back to your bottom layer, duplicate, and drag the copy to the top of your layer palette. Set to Screen.
--Duplicate the new screen layer.
--Duplicate again, this time changing the mode to Soft light
--It's still too faded this time, so I duplicate the soft light layer TWICE more.
--Lower the opacity of the top layer to 28.
Now you have this, which is a pretty good icon as it is, but I wanted something else. Here's the key.
Step 6: Texture
This is from one of my all time favorite texture sets by ![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-userinfo.gif)
77words. I use the whole set all the time, both as background bases and for stuff like this. Copy and paste as a new layer between the two gradient layers we applied earlier. Set to Overlay.
--With your eraser brush on a low opacity and reduced hardness to about 50, erase any parts of the texture that look strange on your image. I erased around Jack's stomach, mostly.You want the reduced hardness and opacity because the erasure doesn't seem so obvious.
Tip: If you erase too much in PSP, you can just right-click with your mouse and UN-erase anything on that layer at any point until you close the image, so don't be afraid to experiment.
And your icon is done. For the text I just added a question mark over Jack's head in white Magneto 18pt and then a tiny text brush that I think is bymeladea, but I'm not sure off the top of my head.
Okay, I'm in a tutorial groove now so here are a couple of more quick ones. First, Janet. Using my La Fuerza De Mi Corazon texture set.
We'll be going from:
to 
This is a PSP 8 Tutorial. Translates easily to other versions of the program; not sure about PS and GIMP since I haven't tried it. Like all my tuts, this is meant to be beginner friendly, so there are detailed explanations. Feel free to skip anything you don't need.
*Image and texture credits can be found in my resource post.
Tutorial 16: Coloring With Janet
Step 1: Choose an image and resize and crop it to fit a 100x100 canvas. There are a couple of ways to do this depending on the technique you're using for the icon, or just personal preference. This is the way I find simplest:
-- With your image open, go to File>New and open a new blank image, 100x100. Then go back to your original picture, click on the layer in your layer palette and drag from the layer palette onto the blank base. You'll end up with something that looks totally wrong, but hang in there. Now go to Image> resize and set it to anything between 75-20 percent, depending on the image. Make sure the box that says "resize all layers is not checked. Click OK and voila! Magic! If it's too big or too small, just undo and mess with it until you get what you like. For this cap, I used 20 percent. Then just use your move tool to slide the image over until you have it where you like.
Step 2: Sharpen the base.
--Adjust>sharpness>sharpen. Only once Sometimes you can get away with twice. If I find a base still blurry, I duplicate the layer, then sharpen the duplicate. This way, if it's too sharp, I can just lower the opacity.
Step 3: Brighten the image.
Layers>Duplicate.
--Set the duplicate to "Screen" Depending on your base image, you may need additional screen layers or you may need to lower the opacity on the first one. I set my opacity to 60 for this icon.
(To do this, make sure the base layer is highlighted and click where it says "Normal" on your layer palette. From the drop down menu, choose "Screen". Then move the little slider thing back from 100 to 60.)
Step 4: Coloring Janet
Copy and paste as a new layer. Set to burn at 28 percent.
I like this, but I wanted Janet to stand out more.
Step 5: Adjust brightness/contrast
I used an adjustment layer for this. Sometimes it's easier to change this stuff at the beginning by altering your base layer. This time I didn't know it was going to need it until I had gotten this far, and an adjustment layer has the advantage of affecting all your layers at once.
Layers>New Adjustment Layer>Brightness and Contrast
Contrast +13, Brightness +10
Step 6:The background.
I often stop here, but Janet just looked so pretty that I thought she needed a more appealing background than her office wall. This texture set has a lot of black space and subtle red/orange coloring, so it works nicely set on screen. The black space then disappears, leaving the colored portions to act as a light source on the picture.
First this one, set to Screen at 100.
Followed by this one, also set to Screen at 70. With your eraser brush on a low opacity and reduced hardness to about 50, erase any parts of the texture that look strange on your subject. You want the reduced hardness and opacity because the erasure doesn't seem so obvious.
Tip: If you erase too much in PSP, you can just right-click with your mouse and UN-erase anything on that layer at any point until you close the image, so don't be afraid to experiment.
This one isn't part of my set, and I'm honestly not sure whose it is at the moment, but it's another I use a lot when I apply light textures. I love how simple it is and yet it adds so much.
And that's it. I felt that text would be too much here, but that's my preference. Add whatever else suits you to finish off.
And one last one with Sam, another really dark cap with a bit of a different effect added this time.
to 
This is a PSP 8 Tutorial. Translates easily to other versions of the program; not sure about PS and GIMP since I haven't tried it. Like all my tuts, this is meant to be beginner friendly, so there are detailed explanations. Feel free to skip anything you don't need.
*Image and texture credits can be found in my resource post.
Tutorial 17: Coloring With Sam
Step 1: Choose and image an resize and crop it to fit a 100x100 canvas. There are a couple of ways to do this depending on the technique you're using for the icon, or just personal preference. This is the way I find simplest:
-- With your image open, go to File>New and open a new blank image, 100x100. Then go back to your original picture, click on the layer in your layer palette and drag from the layer palette onto the blank base. You'll end up with something that looks totally wrong, but hang in there. Now go to Image> resize and set it to anything between 75-20 percent, depending on the image. Make sure the box that says "resize all layers is not checked. Click OK and voila! Magic! If it's too big or too small, just undo and mess with it until you get what you like. For this cap, I used 20 percent. Then just use your move tool to slide the image over until you have it where you like.
Step 2: Sharpen the base.
--Adjust>sharpness>sharpen. Only once Sometimes you can get away with twice. If I find a base still blurry, I duplicate the layer, then sharpen the duplicate. This way, if it's too sharp, I can just lower the opacity.
Step 3: Brighten the image.
Layers>Duplicate. FOUR times
--Set the bottom two duplicates to "Screen".
--Set the top two to "Soft Light" and reduce the opacity to around 52. Depending on your base image, you may need additional screen layers or you may need to lower the opacity on the first one.
(To do this, make sure the base layer is highlighted and click where it says "Normal" on your layer palette. From the drop down menu, choose "Screen" or "Soft Light". Then move the little slider thing back from 100 to 60.)
I like the definition added by the soft light layers, but it seems a bit dark to me, so I added an adjustment layer. You could also try a screen layer, but this gives it a slightly different affect. Or it could be that I just like adjustment layers at the moment. Who knows.
Step 4: Adjustment Layer
Layers>New Adjustment Layer>Brightness and Contrast
Brightness +18
Step 5: Edge Preserving Smooth.
Now, the entire pic just didn't look right to me. It seemed coarse, so I tried an "edge preserving smooth" effect. You can merge your layers for this, but I tend to avoid merging layers unless I have no choice, despite the fact that I know you can save a copy with your layers still intact. So, what I did was:
Go to Edit>Copy Merged.
Edit>Paste As New Layer
This way any changes I make are easy to get rid of if I decide I don't like them.
Now go to Adjust>Add/Remove Noise>Edge Preserving Smooth.
The amount of smoothing depends on the pic, but I think I used like 5-7 here.
Sharpen once if it's blurry. If the effect is too pronounced, try just lowering the opacity a bit to let some of the layer underneath come through.
And, ladies and gentlemen, thus concludes today's installment of Iconning with SG-1. :P
Seriously, please let me know if you have any trouble following these steps. I'd be happy to help if I can.
We'll be going from
to This is a PSP 8 Tutorial. Translates easily to other versions of the program; not sure about PS and GIMP since I haven't tried it. Like all my tuts, this is meant to be beginner friendly, so there are detailed explanations. Feel free to skip anything you don't need.
*Image and resource credits can be found in my resource post.
Step 1: Choose an image and resize it to fit a 100x100 canvas. There are a couple of ways to do this depending on the technique you're using for the icon, or just personal preference. This is the way I find simplest:
-- With your image open, go to File>New and open a new blank image, 100x100. Then go back to your original picture, click on the layer in your layer palette and drag from the layer palette onto the blank base. You'll end up with something that looks totally wrong, but hang in there. Now go to Image> resize and set it to anything between 75-20 percent, depending on the image. Make sure the box that says "resize all layers is not checked. Click OK and voila! Magic! If it's too big or too small, just undo and mess with it until you get what you like. For this cap, I used 20 percent. Then just use your move tool to slide the image over until you have it where you like.--
Step 2: Sharpen the base.
--Adjust>sharpness>sharpen. Only once Sometimes you can get away with twice. If I find a base still blurry, I duplicate the layer, then sharpen the duplicate. This way, if it's too sharp, I can just lower the opacity.
Step 3: Brighten the image.
Layers>Duplicate. Set the duplicate to screen.
(To do this, make sure the base layer is highlighted and click where it says "Normal" on your layer palette. From the drop down menu, choose "Screen.)
Do this three times.
Lower the opacity of the top layer to 52
(To do this, move the slider on your layer palette down from 100 to 52.)
This isn't bad, but I wanted something a bit more dramatic. Here's the key to the coloring.
Step 4: Gradient.
Sometimes I use an adjustment layer to heighten the satuaration on an image, but the advantage of this method is that the different shades on the gradient affect the skintones and clothing on the picture differently. Simply upping the saturation on the whole picture makes Danny all red and Teal'c just strange. This way, the lighter peach color boosts their natural skintone without annoying the crap out of me and making me have to go back and erase parts of the layer or something.
Copy and paste as a new layer. Set the blend mode to Saturation Legacy. I used a 50% opacity here, but don't be afraid to experiment.Step 5: Color Balance (Optional)
This is just me being a perfectionist. I wasn't quite satisfied with the coloring, so I added an adjustment layer. It's optional. Also, the settings will vary widely depending on your cap.
Layers>New Adjustment Layer>Color Balance
I used these settings:
Select the "Midtones" button.
Preserve Luminance box should be checked
Color Levels: 58, 25, 24
If you find the coloring too bold, you can either mess with the color level settings or simply lower the opacity on the layer from your layer palette until you have something you're happy with.
And here's your finished icon. You can leave it as is or add text, textures, or whatever suits you.
And here's another horribly dark to bright and pretty tutorial. This time using the whole team and some warm colored gradients. I developed this technique to enhance the desert in my Dune icons, but it works brilliantly on dark caps too.
We'll be going from:
to This is a PSP 8 Tutorial. Translates easily to other versions of the program; not sure about PS and GIMP since I haven't tried it. Like all my tuts, this is meant to be beginner friendly, so there are detailed explanations. Feel free to skip anything you don't need.
*Image and texture credits can be found in my resource post.
Step 1: Choose an image and resize and crop it to fit a 100x100 canvas. There are a couple of ways to do this depending on the technique you're using for the icon, or just personal preference. This is the way I find simplest:
-- With your image open, go to File>New and open a new blank image, 100x100. Then go back to your original picture, click on the layer in your layer palette and drag from the layer palette onto the blank base. You'll end up with something that looks totally wrong, but hang in there. Now go to Image> resize and set it to anything between 75-20 percent, depending on the image. Make sure the box that says "resize all layers is not checked. Click OK and voila! Magic! If it's too big or too small, just undo and mess with it until you get what you like. For this cap, I used 20 percent. Then just use your move tool to slide the image over until you have it where you like. On this icon, pull the base down so you have some white space left at the top--
Step 2: Sharpen the base.
--Adjust>sharpness>sharpen. Only once Sometimes you can get away with twice. If I find a base still blurry, I duplicate the layer, then sharpen the duplicate. This way, if it's too sharp, I can just lower the opacity.
Don't mind the black border on the examples, it won't be there on your finished product, I just use it here because my layout has a white background so you don't see the space on top without a border.
Step 3: Brighten the image.
Layers>Duplicate. FOUR times.
--Set the first one to "Soft Light". This may seem to be the exact opposite of what you want, but it will help retain detail when you start adding screen layers in a moment.
--Set the middle two layers to "Screen".
--Set the top layer to "Soft Light" and lower the opacity to 74.
(To do this, make sure the base layer is highlighted and click where it says "Normal" on your layer palette. From the drop down menu, choose "Screen" or "Soft Light". Then move the little slider thing back from 100 to 74.)
Step 4: Gradient
Copy and paste as a new layer. Set to screen over the image. It will look weird, but go with me. Duplicate the layer and set to multiply. I'll give you an example image just so you know it is supposed to look this faded.Step 5:Duplicate the base layer. Number of layers for this step depends heavily on the particular image used, so experiment.
--Go back to your bottom layer, duplicate, and drag the copy to the top of your layer palette. Set to Screen.
--Duplicate the new screen layer.
--Duplicate again, this time changing the mode to Soft light
--It's still too faded this time, so I duplicate the soft light layer TWICE more.
--Lower the opacity of the top layer to 28.
Now you have this, which is a pretty good icon as it is, but I wanted something else. Here's the key.
Step 6: Texture
This is from one of my all time favorite texture sets by 77words. I use the whole set all the time, both as background bases and for stuff like this. Copy and paste as a new layer between the two gradient layers we applied earlier. Set to Overlay.--With your eraser brush on a low opacity and reduced hardness to about 50, erase any parts of the texture that look strange on your image. I erased around Jack's stomach, mostly.You want the reduced hardness and opacity because the erasure doesn't seem so obvious.
Tip: If you erase too much in PSP, you can just right-click with your mouse and UN-erase anything on that layer at any point until you close the image, so don't be afraid to experiment.
And your icon is done. For the text I just added a question mark over Jack's head in white Magneto 18pt and then a tiny text brush that I think is by
meladea, but I'm not sure off the top of my head.Okay, I'm in a tutorial groove now so here are a couple of more quick ones. First, Janet. Using my La Fuerza De Mi Corazon texture set.
We'll be going from:
to This is a PSP 8 Tutorial. Translates easily to other versions of the program; not sure about PS and GIMP since I haven't tried it. Like all my tuts, this is meant to be beginner friendly, so there are detailed explanations. Feel free to skip anything you don't need.
*Image and texture credits can be found in my resource post.
Step 1: Choose an image and resize and crop it to fit a 100x100 canvas. There are a couple of ways to do this depending on the technique you're using for the icon, or just personal preference. This is the way I find simplest:
-- With your image open, go to File>New and open a new blank image, 100x100. Then go back to your original picture, click on the layer in your layer palette and drag from the layer palette onto the blank base. You'll end up with something that looks totally wrong, but hang in there. Now go to Image> resize and set it to anything between 75-20 percent, depending on the image. Make sure the box that says "resize all layers is not checked. Click OK and voila! Magic! If it's too big or too small, just undo and mess with it until you get what you like. For this cap, I used 20 percent. Then just use your move tool to slide the image over until you have it where you like.
Step 2: Sharpen the base.
--Adjust>sharpness>sharpen. Only once Sometimes you can get away with twice. If I find a base still blurry, I duplicate the layer, then sharpen the duplicate. This way, if it's too sharp, I can just lower the opacity.
Step 3: Brighten the image.
Layers>Duplicate.
--Set the duplicate to "Screen" Depending on your base image, you may need additional screen layers or you may need to lower the opacity on the first one. I set my opacity to 60 for this icon.
(To do this, make sure the base layer is highlighted and click where it says "Normal" on your layer palette. From the drop down menu, choose "Screen". Then move the little slider thing back from 100 to 60.)
Step 4: Coloring Janet
Copy and paste as a new layer. Set to burn at 28 percent.I like this, but I wanted Janet to stand out more.
Step 5: Adjust brightness/contrast
I used an adjustment layer for this. Sometimes it's easier to change this stuff at the beginning by altering your base layer. This time I didn't know it was going to need it until I had gotten this far, and an adjustment layer has the advantage of affecting all your layers at once.
Layers>New Adjustment Layer>Brightness and Contrast
Contrast +13, Brightness +10
Step 6:The background.
I often stop here, but Janet just looked so pretty that I thought she needed a more appealing background than her office wall. This texture set has a lot of black space and subtle red/orange coloring, so it works nicely set on screen. The black space then disappears, leaving the colored portions to act as a light source on the picture.
First this one, set to Screen at 100. Followed by this one, also set to Screen at 70. With your eraser brush on a low opacity and reduced hardness to about 50, erase any parts of the texture that look strange on your subject. You want the reduced hardness and opacity because the erasure doesn't seem so obvious. Tip: If you erase too much in PSP, you can just right-click with your mouse and UN-erase anything on that layer at any point until you close the image, so don't be afraid to experiment.
This one isn't part of my set, and I'm honestly not sure whose it is at the moment, but it's another I use a lot when I apply light textures. I love how simple it is and yet it adds so much.And that's it. I felt that text would be too much here, but that's my preference. Add whatever else suits you to finish off.
And one last one with Sam, another really dark cap with a bit of a different effect added this time.
to This is a PSP 8 Tutorial. Translates easily to other versions of the program; not sure about PS and GIMP since I haven't tried it. Like all my tuts, this is meant to be beginner friendly, so there are detailed explanations. Feel free to skip anything you don't need.
*Image and texture credits can be found in my resource post.
Step 1: Choose and image an resize and crop it to fit a 100x100 canvas. There are a couple of ways to do this depending on the technique you're using for the icon, or just personal preference. This is the way I find simplest:
-- With your image open, go to File>New and open a new blank image, 100x100. Then go back to your original picture, click on the layer in your layer palette and drag from the layer palette onto the blank base. You'll end up with something that looks totally wrong, but hang in there. Now go to Image> resize and set it to anything between 75-20 percent, depending on the image. Make sure the box that says "resize all layers is not checked. Click OK and voila! Magic! If it's too big or too small, just undo and mess with it until you get what you like. For this cap, I used 20 percent. Then just use your move tool to slide the image over until you have it where you like.
Step 2: Sharpen the base.
--Adjust>sharpness>sharpen. Only once Sometimes you can get away with twice. If I find a base still blurry, I duplicate the layer, then sharpen the duplicate. This way, if it's too sharp, I can just lower the opacity.
Step 3: Brighten the image.
Layers>Duplicate. FOUR times
--Set the bottom two duplicates to "Screen".
--Set the top two to "Soft Light" and reduce the opacity to around 52. Depending on your base image, you may need additional screen layers or you may need to lower the opacity on the first one.
(To do this, make sure the base layer is highlighted and click where it says "Normal" on your layer palette. From the drop down menu, choose "Screen" or "Soft Light". Then move the little slider thing back from 100 to 60.)
I like the definition added by the soft light layers, but it seems a bit dark to me, so I added an adjustment layer. You could also try a screen layer, but this gives it a slightly different affect. Or it could be that I just like adjustment layers at the moment. Who knows.
Step 4: Adjustment Layer
Layers>New Adjustment Layer>Brightness and Contrast
Brightness +18
Step 5: Edge Preserving Smooth.
Now, the entire pic just didn't look right to me. It seemed coarse, so I tried an "edge preserving smooth" effect. You can merge your layers for this, but I tend to avoid merging layers unless I have no choice, despite the fact that I know you can save a copy with your layers still intact. So, what I did was:
Go to Edit>Copy Merged.
Edit>Paste As New Layer
This way any changes I make are easy to get rid of if I decide I don't like them.
Now go to Adjust>Add/Remove Noise>Edge Preserving Smooth.
The amount of smoothing depends on the pic, but I think I used like 5-7 here.
Sharpen once if it's blurry. If the effect is too pronounced, try just lowering the opacity a bit to let some of the layer underneath come through.
And, ladies and gentlemen, thus concludes today's installment of Iconning with SG-1. :P
Seriously, please let me know if you have any trouble following these steps. I'd be happy to help if I can.